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To the Editor: In her essay ''Holding the Bag in Italy'' (Sept. 15), Madeline Drexler quotes Rory Bruce, the manager of Babington's tearoom, who said: ''A lot of English people don't understand tea anymore. They use a tea bag and it's disgusting.''

Brewing tea can be complex or simple. In China, it has been taken to the level of an art form, and, in Japan, it is an expression of Zen Buddhism. When you brew a pot of tea, you share in a daily ritual for millions of people all over the world. Savor the moment, whether preparing a pot of your morning brew, a cup of green at your desk in the afternoon, or a carefully prepared rare tea to be enjoyed with friends. Tea reflects the present-- your preferences, tastes, and mood. Be creative. You are the expert. It’s your cup of tea.

Please remember the quality of any cup of tea is closely linked with water quality. No matter how skillful the preparation or spectacular the tea, bad water will make a bad cup of tea.

Simple Guidelines for Brewing Tea:

Muggatea Cup-Preheat with hot water. The cup with its built-in strainer will prevent leaves from entering the spout.

LEAVES - To allow flavor to develop fully, brew tea loose, not in a tea ball or infuser. Different teas have different weights. With lighter weight teas, be sure to add enough leaf. Use about four grams of tea per eight ounces of water.

WATER - Start with good-tasting water. Tap water contains chemicals that affect the taste of the tea. Try different spring waters, or filtered tap water. Don’t re-boil water as much of the oxygen will disappear, resulting in a flat brew. Do not use boiling water when brewing white or green tea. Over-heated water will cook the leaves and destroy their flavor.

TASTE - Until familiar with a particular tea, steep for a minute or two, then try a sip. Pay attention to taste rather than color. When the tea tastes right to you, drink. Most of our teas are meant to be infused several times. Add additional hot water as needed. Increase steeping time for subsequent infusions. EXPERIMENT -- Feel free to experiment with water temperature, brewing time and proportion of tea to water. There is no right or wrong way to make tea. Let your palate be the guide.

ENJOY - A cup of tea should engage the senses. Slow down. Be part of the moment. Observe the beautiful colors and unfolding shapes of the leaves as they steep; appearance is very much a part of the experience. Notice the tea’s unique aroma as it rises from your steaming cup. Taste. There are many flavors swirling in each cup. Try to catch each note. But most important, enjoy the tea!

STORAGE - All tea has a limited shelf life. Proper storage is necessary to prolong freshness. Store tea in opaque containers to avoid contact with light. Use a container with a tight-sealing lid.

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See our Tea Vocabulary Page

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